Zaurutz to Deba
As beautiful as the sunset had been the day before, the sunrise matched it the next day. As the hostel was on the promenade, we had the chance to see it in all its glory.
We said goodbye to Zaurutz and headed around the headland on the roadside pavement that ran along the coast. We decided to skip breakfast in Zaurutz and get a few miles under our belts before eating in the next village of Getaria. Those miles we got through early on were flat as well. There was a stream of Pilgrims who had also set off early who had exactly the same idea as us. With it’s beautiful beach and ancient narrow streets, this was a lovely place to spot for our usual break of coffee, orange, croissant, cake and tortilla.
From Getaria, it is approximately 3 miles to Zumaia on country tracks and views of the sea are never too far away and the mountains are always visible inland. Nothing could make me happier at this stage.
The walk through Zumaia is flat and industrial in places.
It seems like a really nice place. The tourist office is very modern, we stopped there to get our credentials stamped before walking over the small bridge that lead towards the old town. There was a beautiful fountain that gave us another chance to fill our bottles and the XX café meant another sit down, a coffee and a piece of cake. When you see cakes like this in the Pasteleria Txapartegi Gozotegia it is impossible to pass.
Our accommodation for Deba was outside the town, in fact it was in a different town, just around the headland in Mutriku. It was a 20 minute bus journey along the coastal road, so not too bad and the accommodation was lovely, a typical old school family apartment. Time was pushing on, so we headed into the old town to get some food. We managed to stumble upon a place called Subeltz in one of the narrow streets in the old town. The pizza had rave reviews, so I happy to take the plunge. It was more like a cafeteria, but the food was wholesome and cheap, and the reviews of the pizza were bang on. The margarita pizza was 8 Euros and was more than enough to refuel after a very long day.
After getting our credentials stamped at the tourist office, we left with our full bellies up another beast of a hill. I love this type of country path (apart from the uphill maybe). They are made of cobbled stone and look like they have been there forever.
As we approached Deba we came across an honesty box of cider. They were in a bucket of water to keep them cool, although most of the bottles had been consumed by the time we got there. We deposited our 3 Euros and opened one up using the generously supplied corkscrew. It was nice. Not particularly alcoholic, but nice to share among us.
At this point you feel like Deba is within touching distance, but the route takes you via Itziar, which is mainly uphill and on concrete. It is a bit annoying to be honest. It’s the full heat of the day, we want to finish, but it almost seems like there is a diversion in the way (and not a particularly pretty one).
This is where we discovered the Aussies again, sitting at the first bar, having a glass of wine and a beer. We now knew why there were so many of the empty bottles of cider in the bucket a few miles back. It seems like they were on one massive pub crawl.